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That's why a watch like this white gold Saxonia feels like such a flex. It's an inconspicuous – you might say utilitarian – three-hand watch in white metal that could easily be mistaken for steel. But to someone who knows watches it would pretty instantly be recognized as precious metal because it says A. Lange &amp; Sohne on the dial.

As for the bracelets, they are covered with Toile de Jouy, a fabric born at the end of the 18th century in the Parisian region, whose exclusive designs poetically represent the different worlds of the watch brand.

While the format of the 17 references has changed very little, the 50th anniversary Royal Oak chronos pack a handful of refinements and offer some colorways that are not part of the current collection, including the re-introduction of the "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" dial color from the 1972 original Royal Oak in full Petite or Grande Tapisserie effect.

Here is where I'll start to tread into the waters of unexpected picks. If you know anything about me, you might assume that the ex-Vintage Expert/Buyer would shun even the idea of a quartz movement in any pie-in-the-sky collection. You would be wrong.

While it's still 40mm, case thickness is down to 11.9mm, about 0.5mm thinner than the old Daytona. This is perhaps the biggest difference in the everyday experience of just wearing a Daytona – which, in the end, is what matters most. It makes the Daytona much thinner than many (most?) of its mass-market chronograph comps. The case lugs are also more symmetrical than the previous 116500.

I do believe this year brought a lot of [Royal Oak] supply to the market, and maybe, you know, it will be a good opportunity to buy in the fall season, because there might still be a good amount that come to close out the 50th anniversary year, says Boutros. "But going forward, I do think it will be tough for us to get good Royal Oaks, which will probably keep the demand above supply."

As the official timekeeper of the competition since 2013, Hublot has released a limited and numbered edition, the Classic Fusion Chronograph "Bol d'Or Mirabaud 2019" created specially for the 81st edition of the race.

Ming Thein has been chasing white-emission luminous material for a long time and telegraphed this exploration on the brand's blog last year. He told me he approached suppliers for years, arguing that it should be possible since the wavelength for white light is just all other colors combined equally. But apparently, suppliers were unable (or unwilling) to meet the demand. So Ming sourced what they needed to pursue this project on their own, and that alone is quite cool.

Even though it might feel more like a style statement than a serious tool watch, the specs do support the idea that this could go up against the field. And that's why I think this model merges the best of what the new Rado is great at, experimenting with colors and materials, and what the Rado of the '60s was trying to accomplish with the original Captain Cook. In short, it's arrived right at the sweet spot.

When the "new" Ploprof was announced in 2009 (more on that later), Tom Nesbit saw at least two vintage examples a month come into his shop, Nesbit's Fine Watch Service in Seattle, for restoration. This anecdotal observation is in line with the story the auction numbers tell, with a spike in interest during the relaunch.

It's hard for me to ignore the texture and glow of the enamel, especially in areas where the transparency allows for a view of the movement underneath. That's not something you're going to see on a cheeky Seiko or a Tudor dive watch – love them as I do.

The sapphire crystal is decidedly flatter compared to the original Aquascaphe's highly domed crystal (likely due to the crystal's enlarged surface area without the external bezel). This helps provide the dark dials with a less reflective look and vastly improves the dial's legibility compared to the original outer bezel, which – for all its praise – falls short in that department.

Absolutely. In France we still have some watchmaking schools. I did my watch education first in France and after in Morteau, on the Swiss border. With Semper &amp; Adhuc we're taking old pieces that were doomed to be lost as a way to link the past and present. I have an apprentice in my workshop who is 15 years younger than me, going through the same path I took. So I am quite happy that  I can transmit the know-how.

I had the best intentions when I would tell people that, and I still think a $350 Zelos Swordfish is arguably the best value-for-money in the field of automatic dive watches today, but after spending some time with the rest of Zelos' catalog and speaking with Tang for this story, I realized I was being a bit dismissive of everything else Zelos has to offer.

Casey lives in Singapore and bought the IWC Pilot Chronograph "Le Petit Prince" for his lakeside wedding in New Zealand. He appreciates its elegance and legibility – but, most importantly, every time he looks at the watch now, he is reminded of his wife and that happy occasion. He says that if a watch carries great memories, brings you joy, and inspires you – those are the most important things.

The Zodiac revealed what looked like an amateurish intervention that left minute scratches on the dial when the hands were removed. Further investigation turned up a damaged reversing wheel and worn bushings. Norbert put those complaints right.

As far as I'm aware, this right here is the first 2915-1 to come to auction since last November's record-breaker at Phillips Geneva. The watch at Phillips sold for an unexpected, stunning total of more than $3.4 million, a record for any Omega watch at auction. Will this upcoming example at Sotheby's come close to that? Probably not.