In the mid-1990s, as mechanical watches were rebounding from the Quartz Crisis, it was considerably ambitious for a small independent brand like Chopard to set its sights on becoming a full-fledged manufacture.

I finally found a bagel shop and ordered a cappuccino. The store sold chocolate-chip bagels, and the cappuccino was god-awful, but I swallowed my medicine wondering how anyone who regularly saw Mont Blanc could make a bad cup of coffee.

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Born in 1959, the DS Concept of Double Security is based on a series of standards that allow you to have a Certinawristwatch on your wrist that is praised for its reliability and resistance in order to go through life and endure the ravages of time without a scratch, or almost.

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Thankfully, Audemars Piguet knew it was on to something good and continued to support its oddball Royal Oak, which would slowly gain popularity over the next few years. As Genta highlighted in the above quote, the Royal Oak would soon define an entire subset of high-end steel sports watches. Other brands, including Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, took note and developed their own competition, with Patek Philippe even going so far as to hire Genta to design their Nautilus.

The H. Moser Endeavour Heritage Tourbillon Funky Blue: case, stainless steel, 42.0mm x 11.1mm; sapphire crystal and sapphire caseback. Dial, "funky blue" fume with sunburst pattern. Movement, HMC  804 Automatic, 32mm x 5.5mm, running at 21,600 vph in 28 jewels. Modular one minute flying tourbillon with Moser double balance springs. Strap, hand-stitched kudu with steel pin buckle. Price, $49,000; available now.For more info, visit H-Moser .

For those who don't keep a Rolex anniversary calendar next to their bed, this year marks the 60th anniversary of the Daytona, and the 70th anniversary of the Explorer and Submariner. It's worth noting that Rolex doesn't always celebrate its model range's birthdays. But sometimes it does, as it did with the Platinum Daytona, for example, in 2013.

If you want to look at this through a vintage lens, you might say, at first glance, that it has a Tank Chinoise feel. In my mind, the vibe is a little more Cristallor. For the true watch-heads, one could compare it to a Patek "Top Hat" 1450. Regardless of its inspiration, this collaboration presents an incredibly well priced riff on a very classic style.

He didn't have the money for it at the time. And when he did save up for it a few years later, the watch was impossible to get at retail – and grey market prices were out of control. Eventually the watch found its way into his possession thanks to one of the ADs he works with closely. And while Coombs was excited to finally own the watch, once again it was sharing the moment with his son that made it truly special.

John Mayer is quite good at finding the words to distill life's larger ideas into a succinct phrase. You could say he's made a career out of it. While his thoughts on the 1016 will likely remain the most memorable, my love for the Explorer is simple. Boiling down vintage Rolex, stripping away anything extra, the 1016 is what is left and yet is all I need. We're so pleased to offer a 36mm Rolex Explorer that can be purchased right now. Check it out, in all of its glory, over in the HODINKEE Shop.

Originally published in May 2015 and complete with a full video and plenty of photos, this post covers special entry into two of Seiko's manufacturing locations as well as a look at the brand's museum in Tokyo. From Grand Seiko to Astron, Credor, and even more, it's a close look at the intense and very detail-driven aspects of how Seiko creates watches of all varieties. Click here to read "Inside The Manufacture: A Visit To Seiko Japan."

Fast forward to 2017 (skipping over the Defy's short-lived revival in the Nataf era), and the Defy was born again, this time as the home of Zenith's continued experiments in high-frequency watchmaking. We had the Defy Inventor, the Defy Fusee Tourbillon, the Defy Double Tourbillon, the Defy Zero G, and of course, the Defy 21 series revealed as a new flagship. So how does the latest edition of the Defy 21 build on what is likely considered an already "extreme" design by most watch collectors?

Many Disco Volantes have Gubelin-signed dials for the retailer based in Lucerne, Switzerland. Beyond that, this one's a pretty simple crosshair design. It obviously has some blemishes, but that's to be expected for a '70s dress watch and pretty common for the 5093.

It's still listed at 41mm, but the redesigned case makes it nearly indistinguishable at first glance from the Black Bay 58 which was praised by many as the perfect size. Adios slabs! It's also powered by Tudor's manufacture calibre MT5602-U which is a certified Master Chronometer and it comes on an optional five-link style bracelet with Tudor's T-Fit clasp for easy on-the-fly adjustability (think Rolex Glidelock). There's also a new crown, grippier bezel, and a lollipop seconds.

This year Patek Philippe is making a big move, introducing the reference 5172G, a white gold chronograph, to replace the entire reference 5170 that was first introduced back in 2010. This means the existing stock will dry up quickly, so if you want one, you had better go get one now. Like, right now.

It wouldn't be crazy to assume that without him, the model may very well have fallen into obscurity – a relic of Rolex past similar to the Zephyr or the Turn-O-Graph.

Caliber: calibre L121.2Functions: Time indicated in hours, minutes and subsidiary seconds with stop seconds; power-reserve indicator; Lange outsize date; moon-phase displayDiameter: 30.6 mm Thickness: 5.7 mmPower Reserve: 72 hoursWinding: manually woundFrequency: 21,600Jewels: 44

Yoch is a leader and a tastemaker in the Patek world. Now, she'll be focusing on developing important client relationships across all brands in all of the group's U.S. retail stores. The UK-based Watches of Switzerland Group has 24 retail locations throughout the United States under the WoS and Mayors brands.

Today, we're taking a look at five particularly beautiful pocket watches and table clocks from the exhibit. There are many more of these new timekeepers than we were able to feature here. So if you can get to Geneva or are already there, definitely try to check it out. Due to Covid protocols, you will have to register. For more information, visit visit Patek Philippe.